Bicycles on Trains in Tanzania

In China, Ilona was forced to put her bicycle on a separate train, one specifically for freight. It arrived in Urumqi a few days after her passenger train had. This is better than never arriving, but does give rise to uncomfortable thoughts about whether one’s bicycle journey will be allowed to continue or will be […]

Ignorant in Tanzania

Evan was barely letting Deo respond before firing another question, excited as we were to have a conversation in English. We all stood, us straddling bicycles in leafy shade, him under the sun on the dirt road. We’d paid this older man no attention, his ‘salama’ returned like a thoughtless volley. We were eager to […]

Women’s cycling in Uganda depends on the minds of men

Despite a bad fall in the nineties, Anne still cycles because she needs to. Without her bicycle she says travelling to market in between managing her shop would be impossible. Yes, she insists, “It’s empowerment, going where you want, when you want.” She laughs while reflecting on the limits of her travel freedom. When Anne’s […]

I Am Afraid. I Am Excited.

Even though we’d been careful to duck into the Kakamega Forest unseen, our bicycles still needed locking up for the night. A narrow, thorny tree beside a decomposing log was the only thing that would accommodate the cable lock. Gingerly, I placed myself near the log and to the minimum extent required reached through the […]

Goat, Gone

There’s the skin of a goat on the back of a passing bicycle. The skin is piled onto the rack and the hair shines in the sun, looking slightly wet. A man is steering the bicycle while walking beside it. He’s navigating the sidewalk, if you can call it that. The way separates shops from a gutter deep […]

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